Demo image Demo image Demo image Demo image Demo image Demo image Demo image Demo image Demo image Demo image

Nikon D3100 Hadir dengan Video Rekam Full HD

  • Friday, November 26, 2010
  • kd
  • Labels:
  • Jakarta - Kabar gembira datang bagi kalangan 'Nikonia' (sebutan untuk pecinta Nikon). Kamera digital SLR (DSLR) terbaru dari Nikon yaitu D3100 telah hadir bersenjatakan kemampuan rekam video full HD. Kabarnya, harganya pun ringan di kantong.

    Ini seolah memuaskan dahaga para Nikonia yang menantikan DSLR murah dengan kemampuan rekam full HD layaknya kubu Canon, dengan seri EOS 550D nya.

    Kamera berbasis sensor CMOS beresolusi 14 megapixel ini memang diposisikan bagi pengguna pemula. Dengan bentuk mirip Nikon D3000, kamera ini hadir dengan kemampuan rekam full HD (1080p). Perbedaannya mungkin hanya ada pada 'jeroannya'. Kamera ini juga sudah dilengkapi prosesor Expeed2.

    Seperti dilansir detikINET dari situs Nikon, Kamis (19/8/2010), D3100 hadir dengan lensa kit AF-S 18-55mm VR. Selain itu, kamera ini masih menawarkan 11 titik Auto-Fokus (AF) didukung display LCD 3 inch beresolusi 230.000 pixel.

    Produk ini dijual dengan harga US$ 699 atau sekitar Rp 6,2 juta, beserta lensa kit 18-55mm. Berikut ini adalah beberapa fitur pada DSLR Nikon D3100:
    • Hadir dengan live view
    • Effective pixel: 14.2 juta
    • Image Sensor : 23.1 x 15.4 mm CMOS sensor
    • File format : NEF (RAW), JPEG, NEF (RAW) + JPEG
    • Media : SD, SDHC, SDXC
    • Continuous AF pada modus video atau live view
    • LCD 3 inchi
    • 11 titik Auto-Fokus
    • AVCHD video codec (H.264), HDMI out

    Tak Mau Ketinggalan, Canon Hadirkan EOS 60D

  • kd
  • Labels:
  • Jakarta - Setelah Nikon dan Sony merilis kamera anyarnya. Kini giliran Canon menghadirkan kamera digital SLR (DSLR) terbaru yaitu EOS 60D yang bersenjatakan kemampuan rekam video full HD serta 18 megapixel APS-C sensor.

    Kamera yang menawarkan pembesaran 1.6x ini juga memiliki fitur LCD 3 inch yang bisa diputar hingga bisa mengambil gambar dari berbagai sudut yang berbeda.

    EOS 60D memiliki jangkauan sensitivitas standar ISO 100 sampai ISO 6400 yang dapat diperpanjang hingga ISO 12800. Para pengguna pun dapat menangkap video HD 1920x1080p dalam berbagai frame rate 30, 25 dan 24 fps di 1080p, sementara 60 dan 50 fps untuk 720p.

    Seperti dikutip detikINET dari situs Canon, EOS 60D hadir dengan DIGIC 4 prosesor dan menawarkan SDXC sebagai kartu memori yang menyediakan kapasitas hingga 2 TB sehingga memudahkan para pengguna untuk mengambil gambar dan video HD tanpa perlu mengganti kartu.

    EOS 60D juga menawarkan fitur viewfinder yang telah diimprovisasi, sejumlah pilihan baru kreatif dalam kamera dan filter serta output HDMI untuk menampilkan gambar pada HDTV.

    Produk ini dijual dengan harga USD 1.099 atau sekitar Rp 9,8 juta, sementara dalam versi kit Canon EF-S 18-135 mm f/3.5-5.6 IS lensa zoom dengan harga USD 1.399 atau sekitar Rp 12,5 juta. ( feb / ash )

    5 Kamera Anyar Canon Usung Teknologi HS System

  • kd
  • Labels:
  • Jakarta - Canon baru saja melepas deretan produk anyarnya di pasar kamera Indonesia. Seluruhnya ada tujuh produk tergress yang diperkenalkan, lima di antaranya mengusung teknologi High Sensitivity (HS) System.

    Bertempat di d'Consulate Cafe, Rabu (23/9/2010), Angelie Ivone selaku Marketing Executive Datacript mengatakan, HS System akan membuat kamera menjadi lebih mumpuni dalam mengatasi kepekaan cahaya.

    "HS System memadukan sensor terbaru yang peka cahaya dan prosesor Digic 4, dengan proses alogaritma termutakhir," umbarnya, kepada awak media yang menghadiri acara tersebut.

    Selain sistem ini, Canon juga memperkenalkan teknologi Hybrid IS di beberapa kamera terbarunya, yang menjadikan kemampuan fungsi Image Stabilization meningkat pesat.

    Hasilnya, foto di tempat cahaya minim dan di dalam ruangan dengan ISO tinggi juga zoom maksimum tak akan lagi merusak hasil foto. Gambar pun tetap tajam dan halus dengan warna yang tetap cemerlang.

    Teknologi HS System tersebut terdapat di tiga dari lima model kamera terbaru yang baru diluncurkan. Mereka adalah: Canon PowerShot G12, PowerShot S95, SX30, SX130 IS dan Ixus 1000HS. Sementara teknologi Hybrid IS diusung oleh dua kamera papan atas, Canon PowerShot G12 dan S95.
    ( fw / ash )

    Kuwait 'Haramkan' Penggunaan Kamera DSLR

  • kd
  • Labels:
  • Kuwait - Sebuah peraturan cukup aneh diterapkan di negara Kuwait. Penggunaan kamera digital jenis DSLR di tempat umum dilarang oleh otoritas setempat.

    Dengan demikian, para fotografer dan warga setempat tak bisa lagi memotret di tempat umum dengan kamera DSLR, meski ada alternatif memakai kamera digital biasa atau via ponsel yang masih diizinkan. Namun khusus untuk jurnalis, diterapkan perkecualian karena mereka boleh memakai kamera DSLR.

    Menurut media Kuwait Times, Kementerian Informasi, Kementerian Sosial dan Kementerian Keuangan sepakat menggolkan aturan ini. Seluruh penduduk kini dilarang memakai kamera digital yang masuk kategori DSLR di area publik.

    "Para fotografer di Kuwait mempertanyakan keputusan ini, dengan mempertimbangkan bahwa kamera digital biasa dan kamera ponsel punya kemampuan yang mirip (dengan DSLR)," demikian laporan Kuwait Times, seperti detikINET kutip dari Guardian, Kamis (25/11/2010).

    Ya, aturan ini dilaporkan membuat kebingungan karena alasan pelarangan tak dijelaskan dengan gamblang. Ada dugaan, larangan diberlakukan karena pemakaian kamera DSLR di tempat umum berpotensi menimbulkan ketakutan daripada kamera biasa.
    ( fyk / rns )

    Why you shouldn't pack your camera after sunset

  • Saturday, November 20, 2010
  • kd
  • Labels:
  • A good sunset gives you opportunities to create many types of images: You can use the sunset light to warm the colors of objects on the landscape; you can silhouette objects in front of the setting sun; or you can photograph just the sun, perhaps with dramatic clouds above it. The possibilities are numerous.
    But too many photographers then make this mistake: Immediately after the sun rests below the horizon, they pack their gear and leave the scene, thinking of all the wonderful sunset pictures they made. What those photographers are leaving behind are wonderful images they could have made with the light of dusk. Light bouncing off the sky or off clouds can still illuminate the ground enough for you to photograph, and the rapidly changing sky can still be a great background for silhouetted objects. Either way, always stay out shooting until all the light is gone.
    Gum tree, Australia. Nikon F5, Nikkor 300mm f/2.8 with TC-14E teleconverter. More Pictures of Australia.
    This pair of photos is a good example of the benefit of shooting at dusk. The photo above is of a eucalyptus tree in front of a warm-colored sunset in New South Wales, Australia. The photo below is of another eucalyptus tree, but this time in front of a cool-colored sky in New South Wales. They look thoroughly different, but I photographed the two frames only 20 minutes apart.
    Eucalyptus and moon, Australia
    Gum tree and moon, Australia. Nikon F5, Nikkor 80-200mm f/2.8. More Pictures of Australia.
    That evening, after I made the first image, I almost stopped working because I was hungry and tired. But I was persistent about trying to use the post-sunset light, and my persistence was rewarded. Yes, my camera was aimed at different parts of the horizon for the two photos, but this example still shows how quickly the light can change after sunset. And it also shows the value of continuing to work even after you can no longer see the sun.
    Also, remember that this same idea works in reverse at sunrise. Get to your location before dawn, and you'll likely find a nice, cool sky to use as a background for photos you can't get at any other time of day.
    For another example, compare this photo of Smoky Mountain Sunset, which I made only half an hour before Smoky Mountain Dusk.

    Meter right to keep winter scenes white: How to shoot pictures in the snow

  • kd
  • Labels:
  • Any beginning photographer wielding a camera in snow gets pretty surprised when they see his or her first results: All that fluffy white stuff, more often than not, turns gray in the picture.
    The solution? Do not to trust your in-camera meter when shooting snow scenes.
    Wagon in Falling Snow
    To keep the background snow white in Wagon in Falling Snow, I spot-metered the ground and then opened up 2 stops. Nikon F5, Nikkor 80-200mm f/2.8. More Americana Pictures.
    In winter settings dominated by white, your camera's meter tries to make the snow gray. This results in "dirty snow" and "bad exposure." If you're shooting digital, you've made "extra work" for yourself; if slide film, you've created "lots of trash." Basically, the snow in your photos is dull and dark, the shadows have lost all detail, and your mid-tones are muddy.
    Here are two options for saving yourself from a drift of deficiently exposed snow scenes:
    1. Spot-meter on an area of bright white snow, then open up 1.5 to 2 stops under sunny conditions, .5 to 1 stop under cloudy skies. This should give you an accurate exposure.
    2. If you don't have a spot meter, use your camera's matrix meter to attain an exposure estimate, then open up one stop and bracket for three frames (a half-stop in either direction).
    Snow on Orchard
    Snow on Orchard. Nikon F5, Nikkor 28-70mm f/2.8. More Agriculture Pictures.
    If you're shooting digital, check your histogram. You'll want it to read high on the right (indicating that there's a lot of white in the frame) without being clipped too much (use the highlight-warning feature, if your camera has it).
    This technique is applicable in warm weather, as well — when shooting at the beach on a sunny day, that bright sand will fool your meter just the same the snow did.

    Watch the weather for better light

  • kd
  • Labels:
  • I was shooting in Maine in October 2001 and stopped at the marina of a small seaside village. I photographed some basic scenes with docks and boats and buoys, including this frame of a mooring line. But while the subject was decent enough, the light was rather flat.
    Mooring line, Lincolnville, Maine.
    Lincolnville, Maine. Nikon F5, Nikkor 80-200mm f/2.8. Photo not for sale.
    Maine can be downright chilly in October, especially when the wind blows in from the Atlantic Ocean. Not much time had passed when I wondered why I was letting myself get that cold just to get some standard stock photos in less-than-inspiring light. I thought about packing up my gear and heading to the warmth of my car, but two things stopped me:
    1) The photographer I was shooting with was busy working. I figured that if he was finding a way to be productive despite the flat light and the cold temperatures, then so could I.
    2) Because of passing clouds, the light had been in and out all day. I looked at the sky behind me and saw that the large cloud blocking the sun was slowly blowing to the east, meaning that if I had patience, I had a chance to see some nice light.
    So I decided to stay, sitting on a cold dock waiting for weather to help me. Finally the cloud passed, the light appeared, and I fired off a few frames of a nicely lit nautical landscape. The better light added warmth to the foreground, gave some color to the background, produced a shadow in the lower right corner that anchors the composition, and allowed me to get a little more depth of field (my shutter speed was limited by the motion of the dock on the waves).
    Mooring line, Lincolnville, Maine.
    Lincolnville, Maine. Nikon F5, Nikkor 80-200mm f/2.8. More Boat Scenery Photos.
    Had I not waited for the better light, I still would have had the decent photo that I'd first shot. But by watching the weather and being patient, I improved my results.

    Five ways to botch a good photo

  • kd
  • Labels:
  • There are many ways to fail to execute a good photo shoot, and, at some time or another, I've done most of them. In fact, most photographers have blundered in almost every way at least once. The trick is to ensure that the same mistakes don't happen twice. Sometimes to learn how to do something well, you first need to learn how to do it poorly. So here is how NOT to make a good photograph:

    1. Auto-meter off something light or dark

    Built-in camera meters assume that everything in the world that you want to take a picture of is medium-gray. However, most things aren't. A solid blue sky is the same tone as medium-gray, as is green grass (usually), and some tree barks, and some rocks. And when the tones of all the colors of a scene are averaged, the result is sometimes equivalent to a medium-gray. But if all those factors aren't perfect, you'll get a bad exposure. So if you want to expose the scene incorrectly, then take your meter reading with a lot of light or dark areas included in your frame, such as large white clouds, or spans of deep-blue ocean. Because those are not medium-toned, you'll end up either over- or underexposing your film.
    Great Egret fishing in Gulf of Mexico (AN71)
    A photo such as this would be difficult for a camera to auto-meter: the great egret is too light, the water too dark. (Galveston, Texas; Nikon F5, Nikkor 600mm f/4.) More Wildlife Pictures.
    However, if you want an accurate exposure, then spot-meter off something that you know is medium-toned, such as the objects mentioned above. If your camera doesn't have a spot meter, then temporarily fill the frame with medium-toned objects that are in the same light, and use that meter reading.

    2. Hand-hold the camera

    Regardless of how stable you think you can hold your camera, I guarantee you that you'll get more motion in your shot by hand-holding than by using a tripod.
    Always use a tripod if you can. At least use a monopod or some other method of making your camera more stable. If a photo is worth taking, then it's worth applying the extra effort to make it as sharp as possible.
    (Also see my article on alternatives to using a tripod.)

    3. Don't allow for a masked viewfinder

    Most cameras' viewfinders show only a portion of the scene that will appear on film. Even many pro cameras will show only 90 to 95 percent of what's actually coming through the lens. If you disregard this fact, then you'll find that your images will have more space around each edge, which, if you've composed carefully, will often be dead space or space that introduces unwanted elements.
    Lowbush blueberry in fall, Maine (PR8)
    Viewfinders may mask up to 90 percent of the scene. (Ellsworth, Maine; Nikon N90s, Nikkor 80-200mm f/2.8.) More Landscape Rustic Pictures.
    But to fix this problem, look in your camera's manual to learn what percentage of the scene your viewfinder shows. If your manual doesn't tell you, call the manufacturer and ask, or shoot some test frames to find out for yourself. Once you know what's missing in your viewfinder, you can easily compensate for it by adjusting your framing.

    4. Don't consider using a filter

    Some photographers never use filters, and some always do. Most photographers are somewhere in between. But if you don't even consider using a filter, then you may be missing an opportunity to make your image better.
    Pinnacles Desert, Australia (AU264)
    Pinnacles Desert, Australia. Clouds more defined through use of polarizing filter. Nikon F5, Nikkor 17-35mm f/2.8. More Australian Landscape Photos.
    If you're photographing sky or foliage, consider adding a polarizing filter. If you're shooting in the shade on a sunny day, think about using an 81A warming filter. If you're working in overcast light, try using an 81B warmer. You don't need to carry a bag full of extra filters, but learning the uses of the most basic filters can help you make some just-decent images extraordinary. (In addition to those mentioned, learn how to use split neutral density filters, too.)

    5. Don't look before you shoot

    If you want to throw away more film when it gets back from the lab, then don't bother taking one last look before your open your shutter in the field.
    However, if you want to save yourself from possible aggravation later, then learn to be alert to subtleties in the environment; there are many things that can weaken an image that you may not think about while you're distracted with exposures and filters and lens choices. So, when you think you're ready to expose the film, take a few seconds to look for these things in your scene:
    Distracting elements. Is there a branch you didn't notice? A person in the background looking at the camera?
    The four corners. Does every quadrant of your frame contribute something to the composition?
    Trash. Nothing else can better ruin a good nature shot. Picking up the trash will probably improve your photo, and will definitely improve the environment.

    5 steps to better sunrise and sunset photos by Chris Nicholson

  • kd
  • Labels:
  • kd
  • Labels:
  • kd
  • Labels:
  • kd
  • Labels:
  • kd
  • Labels:
  • kd
  • Labels:
  • kd
  • Labels:
  • kd
  • Labels: ,
  • kd
  • Labels:
  • kota tua
  • kd
  • Labels:
  • kd
  • Labels:
  • kd
  • Labels:
  • kd
  • Labels:
  • kd
  • Labels:
  • kd
  • Labels:
  • Pemakai MacBook Air Dihantui Masalah Layar

  • kd
  • Labels:
  • The Benefits of Free Car Insurance

  • kd
  • Labels:
  • (c) Copyright 2010 ini fotoku. Blogger template by Bloggermint